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- ▌ULTRADECK(c) 1995 Alexander Schonfeld, All Rights Reserved ▐
- ▌ The Ultimate Deck/Collection Development System for Magic:The Gathering{tm}▐
- ▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀▀
- USERS MANUAL
-
- 0.0 CONTENTS:
- 1.0 Files Included
- 1.1 Copyrights/CONTACT INFORMATION
- 1.2 Purpose
- 1.3 Updated Datafiles or Versions
- 1.4 Credits
- 1.5 Bugs/Fixes
- 2.0 General Use
- 2.1 Keyboard Commands and Cursor Movement
- 2.2 Keyboard Commands in Text Editing
- 2.3 Using the Mouse (what to click on)
- 3.0 What It Displays, LISTING Details
- 4.0 ULTRADECK Functions, GRID Details and more
- 5.0 Using ULTRADECK to Create a Deck
- 5.1 Making a Sidebar
- 6.0 Deck Making Tips (IMHO)
-
- 1.0 FILES INCLUDED:
- file_id .diz - The description file for BBSs
- ultdeck .ico - Icon file for use with windows
- ultdeck .pif - Pif file for use with windows
- ultdeck .exe - The executable program
- ultdeck .cfg - The configuration file, set selection color, key delay
- and sort methods at start-up. Edit it as a text
- file...
- ultdeck .ud - Data file
- restrict.lst - A text file of the cards RESTRCTed, change this
- banned .lst - A text file of banned cards, ULTRADECK uses these two
- .LST files as data files, so edit them and you change
- the RESTRCT function.
- //begin registered only
- price-ud.exe - A utility to update the "ultdeck.ud" prices
- price-ud.doc - Quick comment on how to use "price-ud.exe"
- price .lst - The text file this utility reads to update the prices
- card-ud .exe - A utility to update the "ultdeck.ud" card data
- card-ud .doc - Quick comment on how to use "card-ud.exe"
- card .lst - The text file this utility reads to update the card data
- //end registered only
- convert .exe - Util. to convert ver 1.1-1.2 .DCK files to 1.3+ .DCKs
-
- allcards.dck - A deck of all the cards
-
- ultdeck .doc - The documentation, this file
- features.txt - A text file of features
- whatsnew.txt - A text file of info on various releases
- register.txt - How to register and why
- orderfrm.txt - The form to fill out and mail to register
- readme .1st - Basic info, very brief
-
- 1.1 COPYRIGHTS/CONTACT INFORMATION:
- This document is copyrighted (1995) by Alexander Schonfeld. Some of
- Wizards of the Coast{r} copyrighted card names are used inside of it. See
- ULTRADECK for other copyrights. This document can only be distributed
- with the rest of the ULTRADECK package. It is illegal to distribute the
- WotC{r} card data for profit. It can be done for free, however. The
- data is free. The ULTRADECK software is NOT free. Do NOT distribute the
- REGISTERED version. The SHAREWARE version MAY be distributed for free.
- The SHAREWARE version is noted by an "S" extension: UDCK*->S<-.ZIP
- Please upload the SHAREWARE version to BBS's everywhere!
-
- For commercial distribution or licensing rights information contact:
- Name - Alexander Schonfeld
- Address - 5615 SW 42nd Ave.
- Portland, OR 97221
- Internet - alexs@cs.pdx.edu
- Phone - (503)246-6489
-
- 1.2 PURPOSE: "Wield the magic..."
- The purpose of the ULTRADECK program is to make an EASY system for
- creating and evaluating decks that doesn't require shuffling cards or
- writing on your lands. From finding the lowest casting cost blue island
- walking creatures to estimating total dollar deck cost, ULTRADECK can do
- it efficiently and quickly. ULTRADECK can also manage whole card
- collections with relative ease. *blatant plug* If you use this program,
- please show your support and buy the registered version. It doesn't cost
- much and it would encourage a next version. See "register.txt".
-
- 1.3 UPDATED DATAFILES OR VERSIONS:
- New ".ud" data files will be released with new data (prices and
- card data updates) and for future expansions of the game. These will work
- with any version, as will your ".dck" files (see pressing F5 to update
- data). Updates will be available for FTP at:
- ftp.itis.com
- /pub/deckmaster/misc/utilities/pc
-
- You also might check out this web page for updates and Magic{tm} info:
- http://weber.u.washington.edu/aforster/ccgs/magic/announce.html
-
- If you don't have InterNet access, NorthWest Computer Support BBS will
- have updates, phone:
- (503)655-3927
-
- The newest shareware version will also be there. Updates of the
- REGISTERED software are available to registered users for $5.00.
-
- 1.4 CREDITS:
- Software - Alexander Schonfeld (alexs@cs.pdx.edu)
- Andrew Eigus, the great mouse routines,
- and source on changing vga fonts! (very helpful)
- Price list - Cloister Bell (kindly distributed often)
- See "price-ud.doc" for FTP...
- Check out his WWW page:
- HTTP:WWW.HHHH.ORG/~CLOISTER/MAGIC
- Card data - Lots of nice people on the net. (please tell me
- about mistakes)
- Icon/Pif - Help from Ritchie Hunt
- Features - Rene Reichardt, and all other people who have sent
- suggestions.
-
- 1.5 BUGS/FIXES:
- It locks up when I run it?
- Disable all the funny graphics stuff and MOUSE in the ".cfg" file.
- Windows problems?
- If you have had problems running this under windows, see above.
- OR, edit the ".pif" file to run in full screen mode.
- Mouse problems?
- Try a few different drivers. Leave the realm of the "alt" key
- impaired, use the keyboard. :)
- It crashes when my printer runs out of paper?
- Yep.
- What are all the colored blocks?
- Ansi graphics.
- When in doubt, free up more base memory. "memmaker" may cause
- problems.
-
- 2.0 GENERAL USE:
- Run "ultdeck.exe" follow by an optional ".dck" name. This deck will
- be automatically loaded.
- You can move the select bar around with the cursor keys. To edit the
- text you are over or add a new card you press Enter. To adjust card #
- values use +/- or 0-9. To delete a card press the Delete key. Tag a card
- with the Spacebar or by using the TAG function. Imagine all tagged cards
- are tied together or linked. When you move over one and press "+" all go
- up one #. When you move over one and press Delete all tagged cards are
- deleted. If you adjust or Delete a untagged card it will not effect the
- tagged cards. Esc clears all tags. Add cards by Entering a name or
- pieces of the name in the "New Card..." box. When asked a "(Yes or No)"
- question, the "y" key answers yes and anything else (even "Enter") is no.
- The "Esc" key is used to cancel almost every operation.
-
- 2.1 KEYBOARD COMMANDS IN CURSOR MOVEMENT:
- Delete = Deletes current card, or if tagged, all tagged cards
- Tab = Changes from HELP to GRID to CARD TEXT
- ?,#,%,$,T = Change to the corresponding GRID mode (fast version of Tab)
- Shift+Tab = Switches between the GRID displaying all CASTING COSTS and
- actual NUMBERS of cards, (click on the grid with the mouse)
- Enter = Change current card, "Enter" again when done
- Insert = Goes to "New Card..." and presses "Enter"
- 0..9 = Changes current selected card # to number pressed,
- or if current tagged, then all tagged cards
- + or - = Increments or decrements current selected card #,
- or if tagged, then all tagged cards
- Esc = Untag all cards
- Space = Tag current selected card
- Page Up = Up a page
- Page Down = Down a page
- Home = Go to top card/new card
- End = Go to bottom card
- Arrow keys = move cursor
- Alt+key = Activate highlighted (key) function
- Alt+O = Togl all tagged cards quickly
- F5 = If you download a new data ".ud" file and want to update
- your ".dck"'s data, this will re-read all the data
- from the new data file, making all the data current.
- Re-save after this.
- F6 = Cycle the selection bar color
-
- 2.2 KEYBOARD COMMANDS IN TEXT EDITING:
- Any text keys = Edit the name
- Arrow keys = Move cursor right and left
- Enter = Accept text and continue
- Esc = Don't change text and continue
- Ins = Toggle overwrite and insert mode
- Home = Go to front
- End = Go to back
-
- 2.3 USING THE MOUSE:
- Things you can click on (all left button unless noted):
- + ALL the buttons
- + Click on the columns to increment #'s and edit text!
- Right button: -1, Left button: +1 to the # column...
- + Click on tag area to tag cards
- + Click right button on the list area to clear all tags...
- + Click on the WHITE LINE at the top and bottom to do a Page Up
- and Page Down...
- + Click on the "Yes" of a "(Yes or No)" prompt to answer yes,
- anyplace else will answer no.
- + Click on the scroll bar, basically a page up and down or
- up arrow or down arrow equivalent
- + Click on the GRID to switch between NUMBer and casting COST
- Disable the mouse in the .CFG file.
-
- 3.0 WHAT IT DISPLAYS, LIST DETAILS:
- Name = This is the name of the card color coded by card color.
- Comment = A general comment you can enter on the card, maybe how many
- you still need for your deck? Sidebar?
- # = The number of that specific card you have? (+/- or 0-9)
- Type = The card type. (ie. Summon, Enchantment, etc...) This is
- also color coded, by my best guess!
- Cost = The casting cost of the card. These values are as seen on
- the card. These are also color coded.
- Rarity = Color coded printing (f,a,etc...) and rarity
- (C,U,1,2,etc...). The higher the number the more of them
- printed on each sheet. The "+" on some "a" cards refers to
- a misprint. On half the cards the cost were a darker gray.
- The lighter circle is more valuable, sorta.
- Value = An average dollar representation gained from a frequently
- posted internet price list. This value is not always the
- best gauge as it is based on auction sale. Sometimes there
- are not enough data points for a reasonable guess. Some
- cards are "$0.00" because of spelling differences. I will
- fix them soon, look for a new ".ud" file.
-
- 4.0 ULTRADECK FUNCTIONS, GRID DETAILS:
- TAB (grid information) -
- This key cycles through the different views available at the bottom
- of the screen. These include:
- ? = The help screen showing what various things in the rarity
- column and others equal.
- # = A grid presenting either CASTING COSTS or NUMBERS OF CARDS.
- See the upper left hand corner of the grid. Select this
- pressing "Shift+Tab" or clicking on the GRID with the mouse.
- NOTE: if any cards are tagged, the grid will only show these,
- else it shows all cards.
- % = A grid presenting the percentages of the data in the number
- grid described before.
- $ = The dollar values of cards and such based on color and type.
- Casting cost is not involved here.
- TXT = The text of the card your cursor is currently over. Nicely
- colored?
-
- FILE, SAVE, LOAD -
- Normally to start ULTRADECK one will enter a command line parameter,
- like this: "ultdeck allcards". This will load the "allcards.dck" file.
- The extension ".dck" is assumed if not added. Inside the program there
- is a function, Alt+F, that allows you to edit the first 8 characters of
- the dos filename. The ".dck" extension is automatically assumed within
- the program as well. Once a filename is specified you can load (Alt+L)
- and save (Alt+S) the ULTRADECK data to that file. This data is not
- viewable in a text editor. Alt+L pops up a nice selection of ".dck"
- files. Next to the deck is a number representing the # of different
- cards in the deck.
-
- PRINT, TO -
- Once you have selected your output destination, using Alt+T select
- Alt+P to print it to that location. Alt+T selects the destination which
- can be either:
- lpt = to the printer attached to your lpt1 port
- txt = a text file named FILE name + ".txt"
-
- CLEAR -
- This function (Alt+C) basically removes all the cards you have
- selected.
-
- RESTRCT -
- This function (Alt+R) restricts your current deck and zeros all the
- cards that are not tournament legal. It also limits normal cards and
- such. Edit RESTRICT.LST and BANNED.LST to update them.
-
- Delete -
- This deletes the card under your cursor, or if the current card is
- tagged then it will delete ALL tagged cards.
-
- TAG -
- This function (Alt+G) tags all cards of the type specified in the
- "CRD" box after it. If the current card is a "red" card and you have
- selected (Alt+D) "colr" then you press Alt+G, all the "red" cards in the
- deck will be tagged. If you then cycle to "togl" (Alt+D). And press
- Alt+G it will invert all the tags and thus tag everything that is NOT
- "red". You could then move to one of the tagged cards and press "delete"
- to remove every non-red card in the deck. NOTE: the hot key to "togl"
- the tagged cards is Alt+O.
-
- + or - or 0..9 -
- These keys set the card number your cursor is currently on. If you
- are over a tagged card then all tagged cards will be adjusted.
-
- SORT 1,2,3 -
- Pressing "Alt+1" cycles the current top level sort. If this is
- "colr" then it will sort based first on color then inside color on the 2nd
- sort selection. This process is continued on through the third level. So
- you can find the lowest casting cost blue summon by sorting by "colr",
- "type" and "cost". This feature is set to all "alph" in the shareware
- version. Please register for the full version.
-
- DRAW -
- This function (Alt+A) allows the user to draw a sample hand from
- their deck. The card names drawn are presented with a percentage chance
- for each. This chance represents your percentage chance of drawing that
- card. If any non-zero cards are tagged, then it shows the percentage
- chance of drawing those cards if you draw 1 of each tagged together.
- Assuming only one of each.
-
- QUIT -
- Exit the program (Alt+Q).
-
- 5.0 USING ULTRADECK TO CREATE A DECK:
- ULTRADECK's main function is to create real play decks. The best way
- to do this is to start adding cards you think are useful. You might
- first want to do some planning with the "allcards.dck". Get an idea of
- the kinds of cards out there. Once you come up with a general strategy
- use the "allcards.dck" file and sort to find the ones that fit your
- strategy. You might work with the "allcards.dck". Tag the cards
- you want and then at the end "togl" (Alt+O) all the tags and delete
- the rest. Another option is just to enter all the cards you want in the
- new card space. Adjust the "New Card..."'s # before entering its name
- (1-9 or +/-).
- Adjust any numbers that were not entered before you typed the name.
- Then press RESTRCT (Alt+R) to check your deck is legal. Look at the
- casting costs, do they form a pyramid? Can it do damage quickly? If not
- are there some defenses? Can you say every card serves a purpose or
- better yet, many purposes? Is the deck exactly 60 cards? Are there any
- better ways of doing the things my cards are doing--more efficient ways?
- SAVE (Alt+S), then start DRAWing (Alt+A) a few random hands. Look at
- the cards. Are you getting combinations? Is there some defense? Try to
- continue drawing: do you find your deck losing momentum? Remember this
- is completely random. Different types of shuffling can do different
- things to increase your odds of drawing land and such.
- Look at the charts (Tab). Can I cut casting costs and still do
- damage? Think of the # chart as the weight of your deck. You don't want
- it to be too skinny or too fat. Try and cut down as much as you can
- without decreasing damage or effectiveness or diversity. Good luck! Am I
- dependent on one type of card? Is 20% of my deck enchantments, artifacts?
- Will a "shatter storm" kill me? Is my deck all creatures? What happens
- when they cast "wrath of god" or "drop of honey"? Do I have the most
- "mana" for my highest percentage of casting cost totals? Is there one
- card which will kill me? Is my deck totally reactionary?
- Last, but not least, can I afford to buy the cards in this deck? Do
- I want to find those four "ydwen efreets"? Look at the dollar values.
- Usually these are relatively high, with a little shopping, lower values
- can be found, or trades of course.
-
- 5.1 MAKING A SIDEBAR:
- With ULTRADECK the easiest way to make a sidebar is to use the comment
- field to specify "side 4". Then you can sort by comment to organize your
- deck. The sidebar cards should have zero as their # so that they do not
- come up when "drawn".
-
- 6.0 DECK MAKING TIPS (IMHO):
- Start to think about what are some good card combinations. What
- casting cost will these cards take? Do I have to get them together? An
- example might be "Manabarbs" and "Drain Power". This would require a red
- and blue deck. It would also require the game to have progressed for some
- time and that you still be alive. There are a few important elements to
- think about:
-
- 1) What kind of deck is mine? Defensive or offensive? How does it
- progress as playing continues? Take for an example a red speed
- destruction deck. If someone pops out a red circle and they are at 2
- life you are in trouble. Not only because of the circle, but because a
- red speed deck will not have the cards necessary to kill a "Serra Angle"
- without using say two "lightning bolt"s. This brings us to point 2.
-
- 2) You have to think about progression. As time goes along does my deck
- build in strength at an adequate rate? Usually think of a pyramid. Lots
- of low casting cost cards at the bottom, moving up to higher casting
- costs at the top. You want a few high casting cost cards at the top.
- This is not always true. By changing the amount of land in your deck you
- might adjust so that getting to higher costs is easier. Or play alternate
- "mana" supplies such as creatures that produce "mana", "artifacts", etc.
- This can allow you to get a lot more "mana" early in the game. You would
- thus be able to bring out high casting cost creatures early or do massive
- damage. Don't make the mistake of assuming you will have the "mana" to
- cast a "juggernaut" early in the game. The main point is that as the
- game progresses you want to use all your "mana" supply. Thus, later in
- the game you should be doing MORE damage with FEWER cards. This is not
- always true if you are playing around certain combos or playing a
- defensive deck.
-
- 3) What matters in this game? There are a few things: TURNS, CARDS and
- your OPPONENT'S LIFE. What you want to do is decrease your opponent's
- life to 0 using the least number of cards in the least number of turns.
- You want to maximize your deck around these concepts. If you find
- yourself using 3 cards to destroy one of your opponents cards you are in
- trouble. If you see your opponent always disenchanting your "ornithopter"
- with 2 "giant strength"s on it you are in trouble. The problem is they
- are using one card to destroy 3 of yours. As far as turns, games tend to
- get very nasty after about 10 turns. Combination moves start to become
- all too common. Your 20 life is in jeopardy. Think, am I not getting a
- creature out early in the game? Is that why his first turn "juzam djinn"
- is killing me? This rule does not only apply to creatures. Your deck
- might include "counterspell"s or maybe some "swords to plow"s doing the
- job just as well or better. These work as well as any low casting cost
- creature. Your deck should be able to kill before you are killed in a
- reasonable amount of turns.
- There are a few ways to do this. Plan around the different card
- types. They all do damage. Think, can you defend against all types of
- cards? The types include: "enchantments", "instants", "interrupts",
- "sorceries", "summons" and "artifacts". Permissions or "counterspell
- decks" can be good because of their ability to shut down any type of
- deck. Their fatal flaws are that they do not do enough damage, sometimes
- take more "mana" to stop cards than the casting cost and take on a
- defensive posture. There are of course ways to make these types as deadly
- as any other. One other way is to not worry about defense and take a
- totally offensive posture. Usually a deck should only have minimal
- defenses for things like "vises" and "manabarbs". Four "disenchants" is
- what I call adequate.
- Then think about what you are going to do to kill them. How does my
- deck do damage? Does it do it quickly, or long term? How long do I have
- to stay alive to kill them?
- Are there any cards that can shut my deck down? A red circle can
- shut down almost any red destruction deck. Do I have a similar problem?
-
- 4) Remember combination is the key. Almost no game can be won on all
- cards being used individually. Clever combinations are the best way to
- fool an opponent into death. Make sure your whole plan doesn't hinge
- around one card. Using multiple combinations can be very useful. Say
- you want the power of "goblin grenade"s, but don't want your goblins
- sitting around waiting to die. Put in some "blood lust"s and "fork"s to
- give the goblins something else to do. Leading us to 5.
-
- 5) Never become dependent on combinations. Or at least have combinations
- which can slowly make themselves evident. For example you may put down a
- "winter orb" and then 5 turns later find your "black vise" with relative
- ease. Don't make it so cards REQUIRE each other unless you have lots of
- them (ie. 12 goblins for your "goblin grenade"s). Don't make it so your
- cards require your opponent to have certain cards unless they are sidebar
- and color/land/etc... specific and you KNOW they have them.
-
- 6) Total number of cards. NEVER go above 60. There is no reason to and
- it may decrease your odds of drawing the most important cards in your
- deck. You want to maximize your odds of drawing your most important
- cards such as a "black vise" first turn.
-
- 7) You should either have low casting cost defenses or some way to get
- cards and "mana" quickly into play. 30 percent "mana" is adequate for a
- deck with only a few cards at a casting cost of 3 "mana". If you shuffle
- it in it can be adequate for higher costs. Watch out for land
- destruction!
-
- 8) Shuffling is another key point. Usually before a tournament I will do
- a round robin on all my cards in nice stacks of type. Then lastly
- shuffle the land in evenly. You might want to do this before each game as
- well. Sort out your land and then shuffle it in. Then shuffle it in few
- more times to make your opponent reassured. If you notice your opponent
- doing this make sure they shuffle at least as much as you did. 3 times is
- usually fair for both players.
-
- 9) Sidebars should contain a good mix of cards that target other colors
- specifically. Maybe target the color you are weakest against. Be
- careful of falling into traps which expect you to cast certain offensive
- cards. If you have space left over, put in some land for land
- destruction. Make sure you have cards in your deck that you would be
- willing to take out. If you are playing an all red deck with your blue
- and white deck you might want to replace "counterspell"s with "elemental
- blast"s.
-
- 10) When playing semi-intelligent people, with good decks, its mostly
- luck anyway! (see quotes) :)
-
- Enjoy! Alexander Schonfeld
-